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Smell my finger

Natural perfumery

If you remember from our last episode of Afrodesia does France, I was making my way through the world of natural perfumery. Even though I’ve been sort of quiet on that front, I’ve been busy.

I’ve spent the 4-day Easter weekend with my nose stuck in my various perfumery books and breaking out the bottles. That pic above is from my office. It’s a mess, but a gorgeous smelling mess.

The weekend started out with Perfume : The Art and Science of Scent by Cathy Newman. Since it’s a National Geographic book, you know the pics are outstanding, but following Newman as she travels through the world of perfume making is a treat in itself.

After finishing Newman’s work, I started on Fragrance, the Story of Perfume from Cleopatra to Chanel by Edwin Morris. I’m still in the early stages of it.

As for the blending, I’ve started going through a ton of samples I ordered: jasmine, rose, mimosa, and tuberose floral waxes; pink lotus, immortelle, cepes, and cocoa absolutes; and various essential oils such as white cognac, two types of vertiver, and champaca.

I made a blend with cepes (it’s from wild mushrooms and has an earthy, grounding scent), sandalwood, and a couple of other things. It has to sit for about a month or so.

I’ve also commandeered the electric fondue pot heater for some solid perfumes I’m working on. I hope they don’t turn out smelling like cheese.

On second thought, a cheese-scented perfume may work over here.

Comments (4)

  1. Karen wrote:

    Sounds like you got some really nice ones. I’ve been wanting to sniff the lotus (all the colors!) but haven’t ordered any yet. Hadn’t heard of cepes before - anything like oakmoss?

    I’ve been using a microwave/toaster oven combo for solid perfumes but a fondue pot sounds much more chic! :)

    Oh yeah have you smelled labdanum (cistus)? Yum. One of my current faves.

    Sunday, April 16, 2006 at 5:26 pm #
  2. Rashunda wrote:

    Hi Karen,

    Cepes is also called boletus edulis. I decided to try it after seeing a perfume in which Mandy Aftel used it. It’s *sort of* like oakmoss but not as sweet. It has more of an animal note to it.

    I snagged the fondue warmer so I could have everything downstairs in my office. I bought some ramekin dishes to use on it.

    I have labdanum. I like it, but it reminds me of something I was around as a kid. I can’t remember what. It’s good for rounding out blends though.

    The pink lotus reminds me a tad of Father John’s cough medicine but not as thick.

    Sunday, April 16, 2006 at 6:10 pm #
  3. Susanne wrote:

    “On second thought, a cheese-scented perfume may work over here.”

    No way. We are weird, but not *that* weird. Can I visit your lab?

    Sunday, April 16, 2006 at 7:11 pm #
  4. Rashunda wrote:

    Susanne - > aw come on, a little Emmentaler behind the ears never hurt anyone.:-) And sure, it’s just a desk in a corner, but come on down!

    Sunday, April 16, 2006 at 9:46 pm #